Climbing School Cordillera Blanca - Pisco, Chopicalqui Expeditions

TRAINING PROGRAM

This trip is physically demanding and we cannot over emphasize the importance of physical conditioning. We suggest you begin your training program at least two months prior to departure. While strength is important, endurance training should be your primary focus. Walking up hills and stair climbing are both excellent ways to condition your lower body. Begin slowly, without the weight of a pack, eventually adding weight as you increase your training pace. Take a long hike (4-6 hours) several times with a weighted pack (40-60 lbs.) up and down hills or on small mountains (weight your pack with water containers and pour out the water before your descent to minimize knee stress). Supplement this activity with running, cycling, swimming, racquet sports, basketball, etc. for additional aerobic conditioning. If possible try to take at least two longer hikes of 6-10 hours with at least 3,000 feet of elevation gain. Several days before your departure you should rest and drink plenty of water.

FOOD

Ecuadorian Alpine Institute is renowned for providing gourmet mountain cuisine. All of the meals from the trailhead and back will be provided, including pastas, rice, soups, dehydrated, and fresh foods, A good diet whilst climbing at high altitude consists of a what your body needs and will process most easily during your climb. This is important because certain foods will tire you out more than supply you with positive physical energy and endurance. At E.A.I. we provide you with a lean, healthy and complete energy diet because we are aware and concerned of the benefits it has on the body and mentality of a climber. Of course you bring along your favorite snack foods, energy bars, and after dinner treats. Trip members will help prepare meals and clean up in order to become comfortable with expedition cooking

WEATHER

Like all big mountains, the peaks of the Andes generate and attract their own weather, making conditions impossible to predict. April through August typically have the best weather, but be prepared for a wide range of temperatures, from freezing nights and snowy, windy conditions, to bright sunshine intensified by high altitude. The wide fluctuation in temperatures makes it important to bring everything on the equipment list which we send when you have contac with us.

PISCO CHOPICALQUI ITINERARY: 18 days

Day 1: USA. Flight to Lima Peru. Your flight arrival in the evening. EAI. Guides meet to you on your arrival in the airport from Lima also EAI. reserve a hotel night in Lima near to the airport, for couple of hours to relax after long flight from your home.

Day 2: We leave from Lima to Huaraz at 5am. After 3 hours we stop for eat breakfast on the way. After an 9-10 hour bay private bus ride from Lima, we arrive in the town of Huaraz, the bustling economic center of the Cordillera Blanca. We spend the next nights in the small Hotel. The accommodations are not deluxe but is comfortable. Near the hotel there is a nicer restaurant, near of the central City and Andean Markets.

Day 3:
This day we visit the colorful market to purchase fresh fruits and vegetables for our climbs and relax afternoon before to go in our adventure travel in the surrounding mountains. Night hotel.

Day 4: After Breakfast taking care of last minute preparations we will drive 3 hours to Cebolla Pampa, the base camp for Pisco. This base camp elevation is about 12,000 feet (3658mt.) and located in the Quebrada Llanganuco above the turquoise waters of two beautiful lakes. From the base camp we will take a short afternoon hike.

Day 5: This day we continue our process of acclimatization with a hike to Portachuelo de Llanganuco valley, a 15,635 feet (4767mt.) we pass above Cebolla Pampas with incredible views around we’re, Chopakalki, Huascaran, Pisco, the Huandoy group and many other peaks of the incredible Cordillera Blanca, we hiking in between of nicer paramo. Don’t forget you the camera for taking a several pictures from all this massives.
Glacier School

Day 6: Continue in our process of acclimatization this day we hike up to our intermediate high camp. With the support of mules for carrying our loads this will be a reasonable 5-6 hour hike up with only daypacks on our backs.

Day 7: This day the climbing will demand that we carry heavy packs in our backs, we Move to high camp where we will establish this first high camp 3-4 hours approximately between the camps. prepare for our summit climbing day.

Day 8: Summit day. After an early morning departure at 3:00 am. The top is guarded by a short vertical pitch we arrive at the summit of Nevado Pisco Oeste 19,300 feet (5884mt.) this summit offers unsurpassed views from the gigantic peaks, glaciers stretch for miles in all direction. will help us acclimatize, as well as provide us with an opportunity to polish our skills for our next climb. And then return to our intermediate camp for the night.

Day 9: Early in the morning return to base camp. Where we rest and prepare for our ascent of Chopicalqui base Camp.

Day 10: Full rest day in our base Camp at 12,500 feet (3810mt.)

Day 11: After breakfast we move to the Moraine Camp 1) located about 16,075 feet (4900mt) This day we will be a porter-assisted for our mountain gear put up to Camp.

Day 12: After moving through the moraine above camp1 we rope and climb on the glacier to our high camp 2) about 17,056 feet (5200mt) Our guide mike this move, the climbers well be like to mike this is good or resting in the moraine camp 1).

Day 13: This day we move at the high camp with all our mountain gear. An early dinner then its time to rest for the early wake up.

Day 14: Summit day. Early wake up, Relatively straightforward glacier travel leads to the saddle between Chopakalki and the fascinating east ridge of Huascaran Sur. From the saddle glacier slopes interspersed with short steep sections (up to 60 degrees) lead to the wildly corniced and fluted summit at 20,842feet (6354mt). This is an grandiose day! Return to the Moraine Camp. (There one days reserved for the summit climb if we have bad weather.)

Day 15: This day return to Huaraz, for some much needed rest and relaxation. We will be have a celebration and traditional Peruvian dinner. If you like And have a good condition after the high climb we go for a salsa dancing.

Day 16: Rest day in Huaraz.

Day 17: Return to Lima, flight in the night.

Day 18: Arrival at home. USA.

DEPARTURE DATES FOR PISCO & CHOPICALUQUI, 18 Days.

    May.  31st  to June. 17th  - 2008
    Jun.   26th to July.  02nd  – 2008

ALPAMAYO EXTENTION TRIP, 12 Days.

    June. 16th  to June. 26th  - 2008
    July.  07th  to July. 18th  - 2008


If you would be like this departures dates or if you have some other special departure dates more convenient for you we organize that Itinerary.

Also for Alpamayo trip if you like to climbing just Alpamayo we do organize that departure dates just for this mountain to.


NOTE ON ITINERARY: Although we do our best to follow the schedule above, this itinerary is subject to change due to weather, route conditions, and other factors beyond our control.

GENERAL INFORMATION: This trip is subject to the booking information on the Ecuadorian Alpine Institute trip application. We urge you to read this information carefully and to call us or write if you have any more questions.

 
Contact us:
EAI -Ramírez Dávalos 136 y Amazonas 1er Piso. Oficina 102
E-mail: eai@volcanoclimbing.com - Telephone #: (593) 2 2565-465 | (593) 2 2568-949 | (593) 9 600-4090
Quito, Ecuador