TRAINING PROGRAM
This trip is physically demanding and we cannot over emphasize the importance of physical conditioning. We suggest you begin your training program at least two months prior to departure. While strength is important, endurance training should be your primary focus. Walking up hills and stair climbing are both excellent ways to condition your lower body.
Begin slowly, without the weight of a pack, eventually adding weight as you increase your training pace. Take a long hike (4-6 hours) several times with a weighted pack (40-60 lbs.) up and down hills or on small mountains (weight your pack with water containers and pour out the water before your descent to minimize knee stress). Supplement this activity with running, cycling, swimming, racquet sports, basketball, etc. for additional aerobic conditioning. If possible try to take at least two longer hikes of 6-10 hours with at least 3,000 feet of elevation gain. Several days before your departure you should rest and drink plenty of water.
FOOD: Ecuadorian Alpine Institute is renowned for providing gourmet mountain cuisine. All of the meals from the trail head and back will be provided, including pastas, rice, soups, dehydrated, and fresh foods, A good diet whilst climbing at high altitude consists of a what your body needs and will process most easily during your climb. This is important because certain foods will tire you out more than supply you with positive physical energy and endurance. At E.A.I. we provide you with a lean, healthy and complete energy diet because we are aware and concerned of the benefits it has on the body and mentality of a climber. Of course you bring along your favorite snack foods, energy bars, and after dinner treats. Trip members will help prepare meals and clean up in order to become comfortable with expedition cooking
WEATHER: Like all big mountains, the peaks of the Andes generate and attract their own weather, making conditions impossible to predict. April through August typically have the best weather, but be prepared for a wide range of temperatures, from freezing nights and snowy, windy conditions, to bright sunshine intensified by high altitude. The wide fluctuation in temperatures makes it important to bring everything on the equipment list which we send when you have contact with us.
URUS, ISHINCA, TOCLARAJU ITINERAY: 16 days
Day 1: USA. Flight to Lima Peru. Your flight arrival in the evening. EAI. Guides meet to you on your arrival in the airport from Lima also EAI. reserve a hotel night in Lima near to the airport, for couple of hours to relax after long flight from your home.
Day 2: We live from Lima to Huaraz at 5am. After 3 hours we stop for eat breakfast on the way. After an 9-10 hour bay private bus ride from Lima, we arrive in the town of Huaraz, the bustling economic center of the Cordillera Blanca. We spend the next nights in the small Hotel. The accommodations are not deluxe but is comfortable. Near the hotel there is a nicer restaurant, the central City and Andean Markets.
Day 3: This day we visit the colorful market to purchase fresh fruits and vegetables for our climbs and relax afternoon before to go in our adventure travels in the surrounding mountains. Night Hotel.
Entrance to Huascaran National Park.
Day 4: We live after breakfast for hike up to Churup lake above Huaraz for acclimatization our bodies and get our self good power full in the altitude. In the evening we make final preparations all our material, clothing, mountain gear Etc. for our trek into the Ishinca Valley. Hotel night.
Day 5: After breakfast we beginning to drive to the village of Collon. In this village EAI. pay the fees for the national Park for going In to very surrounding and wail area of Ishinca. After loading mules or “burros” with our food and equipment we begin the trek up the Ishinca Valley. Our hike to camp will take about 6-7 hours. With the exception of several high camps, this will be our camp for the duration of the expedition. Although we will be staying in tents, also near is a the refuges by offer the chance to take showers.
Day 6: Rest day for acclimatization. We will have the opportunity to review some skills development today before our climbs also crevasse rescue, rope glacier travel, altitude physiology, route and weather assessment, this day help to for acclimatization for our bodies also. There is an opportunity to rock climb here too.
Day 7: We wake up early at 4am. for the ascent of Urus. After breakfast we live from our camp at 5am. Our route up the southeast ridge are a rock and on snow presents a few difficulties pass, climb in the nicer glacier for final steep summit slope. Roundtrip will take between 10-12 hours.
Day 8: Rest morning, This day we move to our high camp on Ishinca. After lunch we live from our base camp at 1pm. We hike up with all the mountain gear, arrival in the Ishinca Camp at 3 or 4 pm. Install oneself our nice “house” tents, rest and dinner.
Day 9: Glaciers skills, After breakfast we move up to the very glacier for our skills We'll be learn and practice rope-handling, glacier travel snow climbing and basic crevasse rescue, self-arrest and safety more techniques. This day we have early dinner and early to bed before our ascent of the mountain.
Day 10: We wake up early in the morning at 2am breakfast, prepare all the our mountain gear, our ascent of Ishinca is over easy glacier terrain, perfect for perfecting our rope traveling technique. Our way up one route and descending another way near of the foot of Ranrapalca mountain. Of course If time and conditions permit we may be able to traverse the peak. After the climb we return to high camp where we spend the night or pack up and return to base camp.
Day 11: Rest and relax in camp: we have this day for pay soccer in the high camp with a local kids. Also preparing all our gear for next big climbing.
Day 12: After breakfast we live from or base camp, once again we make our way to a higher camp for the climb of our main objective- 19,791feet ( 6034Mt.) Nevado Toclaraju. From our high camp at 17,200 feet (5244Mt.) we have incredible views of the surrounding peaks and the valley and lakes far below. Dinner and early to bed.
Day 13: We live early in the night at 2am from the high camp. This will be a long day for the climb of Toclaraju 19,791 feet (6034Mt.) Easy to moderate glacier terrain leads to the final summit pyramid where we encounter several steep snow and ice pitches up to 60 degrees that may require belaying depending on conditions. The accent of this peak is more technical and will challenge all of the skills we have developed. If we have a good weather conditions the views is a incredible panoramic around you’re from Toclllaraju’s summit. From the summit we descend to our high camp for one final night in the Cordillera Blanca.
Day 14: Return to base camp on Ishinca valley and hike out for the road head to Huaraz. In the evening we have a celebration dinner with a local drink Pisco Sours, also a little salsa dancing.
Day 15: After breakfast we live from Huaraz bay private Bus return to Lima. Flight in the night to USA.
Day 16: arrival USA. at home.
DEPARTURE DATES FOR URUS, ISHINCA, TOCLARAJU, 16 Days.
June. 08th to June. 23rd – 2008
June. 29th to July. 14th – 2008
ALPAMAYO EXTENSION TRIP, 12 Days.
Jun. 22nd to July. 03rd 2008
July. 13th to July. 24th 2008
If you would be like this departures dates or if you have some other special departure dates more convenient for you we organize that Itinerary.
Also for Alpamayo trip if you like to climbing just Alpamayo we do organize that departure dates just for this mountain to.
NOTE ON ITINERARY: Although we do our best to follow the schedule above, this itinerary is subject to change due to weather, route conditions, and other factors beyond our control with the nature.
GENERAL INFORMATION: This trip is subject to the booking information on the Ecuadorian Alpine Institute trip application. We urge you to read this information carefully and to call us or write if you have any more questions.
|
