COTOPAXI-CHIMBOTAZO-ACONCAGUA. 6 SUMMITS ALONG THE AVENUE OF VOLCANOES.

EXPEDITION ECUADOR ARGENTINA 26 DAYS ITINERAY ROUND TRIP OVER THE AMAZING ANDES.

At you arrival EAI staff pick-up form the Airport to the hotel for your first night at the hotel in Quito. We will spend 12 days in Ecuador for a properly acclimatization for climbing 6 summits along the avenue of the volcanoes, 5 in Ecuador 1 in Argentina the roof of the America "Aconcagua" of course at 22,825ft!. The climbing will begin in Ecuador with a climbing acclimatization of Guagua Pichincha 4794m (15,724ft) or Rucu Pichincha 4627m (15,176ft.) We propose the three following mountains to begin the "real" adventure: Iliniza North at 5125mt (16,810ft) good mountain for beginning your acclimatization. Cotopaxi volcano 5897m (19,342ft), it is the world's highest active volcanoes and Chimborazo 6310m (20,696ft), The volcanoes of Ecuador are well known among climbers. Chimborazo is the furthest point from the center of the earth (due to our planet's equatorial 'bulge') Our expedition to the highest mountain in Ecuador during the 12-day itinerary, following a thorough acclimatization program and glacier skills training on Packed with climbing activity and variety technical equipment a natural mountaineering environment.

The 26-days trip is enables us to experience the landscape, culture and people of the Andean country.  During the expedition, we climb 6 volcanoes. The first two high objectives in Ecuador provide good acclimatization before we move south on to Aconcagua in Argentina.

EAI. Expedition beginning in the North of the Andes in Ecuador “in south america” with beautiful Volcanoes with good acclimatized. Your expedition continues follow down of South America. Inmediately we meet the Andes massif Mt. Aconcagua.

Ecuadorian Alpine Institute proposes the three high mountains peak to begin the "real" adventure following on the Andes.

The team spent tow wonderful nights in Mendoza enjoying good food, plenty of wine Etc.  EAI guide arranges and made the Permit for Aconcagua National Park, how would be a busy day since the office was only open from 9 AM to 1 PM. Luckily the guide had pre-paid for each climber the day before we go on our regular Itinerary and we received our permits without difficulty.

NOTE PLEASE THAT: Aconcagua is not a trek only, it is a mountaineering expedition. Although it is a non-technical ascent, it is a long and extremely tiring climb at altitude.  
 

Volcano Cotopaxi 5.897m  (19.786ft/)- Words active volcanoe
Chimborazo 6.310m /(20.697 ft) - Ecuador's highest peak
Aconcagua 6,959tm (22,825ft) – The roof of the America

 

Day 1: Arrival. Pick up in the airport transfer IN to you hotel available.

Day 2: City Tour of Quito.

We offer a scenic tour through Quito, a city of contrast between the Spanish colonial displays, pre-Colombian art and Inca culture.  We also visit the national ethnological museum, which provides a good introduction to the history of Ecuador, several of the city's most interesting colonial churches, and the busy and traditional central market. Full day around of Quito, (this day just for relax and the first day for acclimatization to.)

Day 3: Pichincha (4794m /15,724ft)
We take our first acclimatization ascent on the 4794m (15,724ft) peak of the active volcano Guagua Pichincha.  Quito is nestled on the slopes of this active volcano.  Our primary goal here is to help each team member begin testing his or her response to higher elevation and to give our bodies a chance to get used to altitude, while enjoying the many photographic opportunities.  In the afternoon drive back to Quito.

Day 4: Refugio ILINIZAS (4.600m/15,088ft) 
  
After breakfast a mid-morning departure from Quito to Ilinizas and to the parking lot. We travel for the Panamericana high way, We passing for very nice and agriculture areas and very grin areas and many Volcanoes on front of us you can see nice view and good time for pictures too.  We will be arrival a remote area called “paramo” that is to an area called la Virgén. From here it is a 3 hours hike up to the refuge with our full back packing on us, the refuge is situated at 4,600m. Dinner and sleep in the refuge.

Day 5: ILINIZA NORTE (5.125m/16,810ft)
Wake-up early in the morning at 5 AM. Breakfast. and departure for our 5,125m summit day attempt on Iliniza North. This peak is normally a fairly straight forward climb that sometimes requires for acclimatization days the trail on this mountain is send and Rock almost difficult for fine the way, if the water condition is bad with cloud for sure is very ease for last the way and last the person too.   On one part of the way we will be use a fixed rope for pass or negotiate "Death Pass." After this pass we have the summit.  Three hours average to reach the summit.  Pictures time, Lunch.    Descent for one 1,1/2 to refuge,  resting before to going down to the parking lot at our private car 4x4 transportation will take us to hotel near to Cotopaxi National Park for one hour driving and put on our hotel resting night. Hotels, La Estacón, La Ciénega or Volcano Land.

Day 6:  COTOPAXI. Cotopaxi Refugio (4800m/15,744ft.)
We live from the hotel after breakfast where our driving destination ends at the Cotopaxi car park, situated at (4550m/14,924ft.)  From here we have a forty-five minute hike with full packs up to the Jose Rivas Refuge on the Cotopaxi flank north West at 4800m (15,744ft.)  After arrival at the hut, we will enjoy a hot tea and a short rest before a training to the climbing rope nuts, Pruxiks and good driving  for safety climbing in the mountains, rest, delicious dinner relax evening.

Day 7: Cotopaxi climbing SCHOOL
Cotopaxi Glaciers School. Wake up at 7 am for breakfast. We continue adjusting to altitude acclimatization. We go on the glacier at 8h30 AM. And engage in the moderate glacier section a good activity.    Where well be familiarize ourselves with the various climbing techniques, equipment work for climbing.  Our guide get to you  on a glacier skills all of techniques necessary for climbing the high peaks like  Cayambe, Cotopaxi, Chimborazo. Etc. Etc. Etc... and others mountains, too. We'll be learn and practice rope-handling, glacier travel snow climbing and basic crevasse rescue skills and safety techniques, all the general procedures for highest mountains climbing peaks. After 5 hours training we are back to refuge for delicious lunch and resting afternoon,  Of course we Prepare our mountain gear for a midnight departure for Cotopaxi day summit. Early dinner and early bed usually by 6:30 P.M.

Day 8: Cotopaxi-summit  (5897m/19,427ft)
Wake up at midnight. Breakfast and equipment check-up. We leave the refuge at 1:00 A.M.  We will pass a group of uniform slopes and ice ramps of 30 and 35 degrees before reaching a glacier platform.  We enjoy one of the spectacular color displays in the Andes.  From this point we see the valley below us where the morning sunrise welcomes us with incredible colors.  Our route will pass under a base of rock 400 feet wide called Yanasacha. The quichua name says it all, its a black wall of impressive size. The Indians called it the route of the moon. Here we start climbing glacier slopes of 35 and 45 degrees, at the top of which we will only have 15 more minutes climb to emerge onto Ecuador's second highest summit: Volcano Cotopaxi at 5897m/19,427ft.)  Our approximate climbing time will have been 7 hours.  Return to the refuge around 9 or 10:00 A.M.  Rest and hike back down to the 4 x 4 where we'll return to la Ciénega for a restful night.

Day 9: Resting Day: Or visit the Quilotoa crater like at 3900m/11,890ft)

Day 10: Chimborazo. 
Depart from La Cienega at 10:00 A.M.  Drive south of Cotopaxi where we will pass the agricultural towns of Latacunga and Ambato. Five hour drive crossing agricultural and indigenous areas where a picture or two may attract you.  We will arrive at the lower refuge.   We begin the day with a forty-minute walk with full packs up to the Whimper hut on the Chimborazo flank situated at 5000m/16,400ft.)  Later we will take a short 2 or 3 hours hike around the ridge and then return to the refuge where we will rest and prepare ourselves for the early morning departure.  Early dinner and once again we will go to bed as early as 6:30 P.M.

[Translate to Français:] Day  11: Chimborazo 6310m/20697ft)
With 5 summits, is Ecuador's highest mountain and one massive volcano!   We rise at midnight for breakfast and an equipment check-up.  Leave the hut at 1:00 A.M.  We move immediately to the huge glacier on Chimborazo's southwest face where we first traverse moderately angled ice slopes, climb through a series of icefalls and up the steep ice ramps. Climbing simultaneously in moderate grounds belaying up the steep pitches.  Our team will rope together in order to cross crevasses and finally make it to the summit. This is the highest point of the Andes and from here we have a magnificent view of the emerging volcanoes that form the eastern and western Cordillera. The said volcanoes seem to emerge from the clouds below our feet.  Our approximate climbing time is 8 to 9 hours. Return to the refuge around noon. Lunch and return to Quito, arriving in the hotel in Quito at 8:00 P.M.  

ACONCAGUA CLIMBING EXPEDITION TRIP AT 6,959mts.(22,825ft)

Day 12: From Quito flight to Mendoza in the evening. Arriving in Mendoza late in the evening of day 13, transfer IN with EAI guide. Airport escort you to the hotel, Overnight rest of the night.

Day 13: City tour in Mendoza (740mts)
Or a rest day on the City. Before at City our expedition leader will check the essential items of your Mountain equipment, to ensure that you are well equipped for the climb. Exploring the charming city of Mendoza, in the heart of wine country, is always a highlight of this trip. This is a good day to wander about the town, enjoy the many parks, visit walk at the cafes, delicious local cuisine, and take care of last minute details for the next day drive up to direction of the Aconcagua Andes Mountain.

Before leaving the city, our expeditions leader finalized on the Aconcagua National Park. Here, we must complete our applications to enter the park for climb the mountain. Ecuadorian Alpine Institute meets all permit charges, so all you will need is your passport, a copy of your insurance certificate and a biro. Once these minimal formalities are completed this day on Mendoza.  EAI leader meet you at the hotel in the evening for a group dinner and briefing orientation. Hotel.

Day 14: Leave from Mendoza early in the morning in at private transportation, Lunch at the Penitentes town. Penitentes is a small development built to serve the ski slopes that straddle the Mendoza-Santiago highway at this point, just short of the entrance to the Horcones Valley. After lunch we continue drive for 15 more Kilometers, we arrive and pass at Puente del Inca (2719mts.) To horcones Guarda Parques entrance at 2675mts.- about 5 hours driving time, 180 kilometers from Mendoza to Horcones. We will spend the night in the tents. The name Puente del Inca comes from the impressive natural bridge which crosses the Rio de las Cuevas, the color full of this material is yellow, red and oranges that natural formation to give you a nice panorama and view of this fantastic area.  Horcones Camp.

Immediately after arrival, we sort out our bags for the mules, as these will be taken early the next morning and delivered to Plaza de Mulas, our next stopping point base camp.

[Translate to Français:] Day 15: Breakfast at the Camp side Horcones, This day we begin our approach to Aconcagua. Mules will carry all of our expedition food and equipment. Enabling us to enjoy this spectacular day hike with a light daypack. The trail follows the Horcones River to the junction of the Lower and the Upper Horcones River. After crossing the Lower Horcones on a footbridge, we continue up the river valley towards Confluencia (3395mts.) where we will pass this intermediate Camp.

Were the others climbers use for spend three nights at Confluencia in order to adequately acclimatize for climbing Aconcagua. EAI groups coming here with very good acclimatize from Ecuador after climbing Mt. Chimborazo at 6310mts.

This is a tough day - taking about 7 or 9 hours to reach base camp Plaza de Mulas. We start relatively early at 8 am, armed with no less than 3 litters of water per person, as the valley that stretches ahead is hot, and dusty, even though a river runs across the wide plain of the valley floor.  

After 4 hours of walking, along a very gentle rise, and avoiding river crossing, if possible, in order to keep our boots dry, the valley splits, and the route swings to the right (north). Here, we rest for lunch and prepare for the sudden rise in altitude that will accompany the afternoon's stroll. The path rises steeply to complete the hardest day of the expedition, so far. By the time we land in Plaza de Mulas, we will have climbed nearly 1,500 miters during the day.

We settle into our base camp tents, and get to know the local staff who will support us from this point onwards. There will be a mess tent dedicated to our team, which we can use at any time - for meals, for meetings, for socializing or for simply passing the time of day. Set up our camp at 4200mts.  Plaza de Mulas base Camp.

Day 16: Today is just for rest full day and recover our energy on our body at the new altitude on Aconcagua at Plaza de Mulas base camp at 4200mts. After the previous day's hard walking. A day off, allows everyone to readjust and to get ready for the ongoing climb upwards. EAI will be supplied with a breakfast, lunch and dinner every day we are in the base camp, interspersed by hot drinks being provided regularly, and with drinking water being made readily available to ensure a good level of hydration. Overnight at base camp Plaza de Mulas.

 
Day 17: After at very good breakfast. This is a great day out, culminating in our first successful summit on massive sentinel, and giving the most brilliant views of Aconcagua on the opposite side of the valley. From the summit of Bonete, almost the entire route to the top of Aconcagua can be studied as it wends it way, we back at the base camp for lunch. In the Afternoon the expedition leader will prepare a list of what to take. At the same time, loads will be prepared for the local porters to carry with them, which ensures you will only have to carry your own personal equipment, with all group stores and food being taken by the porters who support the team. Overnight at base camp Plaza de Mulas.

 
Day 18: Camp 1 Nido de Condores at (5,559m/ 17,100ft )
We catch our food, gear to deposit at Nido de Condores Camp in preparing enough logistic at the camp 1 for the next days expedition on the very high altitude before to ataque at the Summit, after we go back down to the Base Camp.

Today we carry gear up toward Camp I (17,100ft). From our base camp at Plaza de Mulas we follow the trail as it gradually switchbacks up steep scree slopes to the rock spires that mark Canada Camp at (5000m/16,500Ft) were we pass and follow up at Nido de Condores our next camp 1. We cache food and gear here and then return to base camp. This usually takes 7 to 8 hours round trip. Overnight at the Base camp Plaza de Mulas.

Day 19: Today, we make our first foray on to the mountain, by climbing to Canadian site, where the others expedition spend the first night sleeping above base camp for more acclimatization, we pass this camp and spend the night at the Nido de Candors Camp 1 for EAI. Groups how have a very good acclimatize before on the Andes of Ecuador yet.  The evening can be spent "looks like on the beach" watching the sunset to the west, as it settles down behind Bonnet Peak. This is a really useful day, and past experience has shown that by sleeping on the mountain now, our acclimatization will be given a huge boost, that will enable us to tackle the mountain with more energy and less difficulty, later on. Camp 1 at Nido de Condores at (5559m/17,100ft) Overnight.
 
Day 20/21: First day to summit attempt: Today is scheduled for rest only and preparing for our next long summit day push, we spend the day at Nido the Condores Camp1 for EAI groups, Overnight.

Summit Bid Day.  We have three days in which to reach the summit. This gives us spare time in case of bad weather, but the summit will be attempted on the first day if possible. With an early start, the summit is attainable in about 9 hours.

Three summit days have been scheduled into the itinerary in case of bad weather at any part of the climb. In addition, day 22-23 can also be used as an alternate summit day if climbers return to base camp on that days.

We awake at 02h a.m. to check the weather for the day. If the EAI leader and guides agree to go, then everyone needs to get ready for the big day. After a breakfast, and as much to drink as time permits, it's out into the cold pre-dawn night, for a start no later than 4 a.m. We gain the path above Berlin Huts and zigzag up screen and occasional snow patches to another hut (Independencia) 6,377m. From here, the route crosses the side of the mountain over scree to break out at the start of the traverse that leads to the foot of a large gully leading down from the Summit Ridge. This is the Canaleta, which gives the most strenuous climbing. Eventually it leads to the Summit Ridge and stupendous views straight down the south face of Aconcagua. A 35-minute traverse leads across rocky ground and a well-defined path to a short scramble immediately below the top. This leads, without difficulty, to the final steps that lead to the small summit plateau. Here, a cross marks the highest point in the western and southern hemispheres. We have between Nido de Condores to Aconcagua Summit 1399mts. Of altitude, we use around 9 hours up and 4 or 5 hours down.

After reaching the summit, celebrating the ascent and taking photographs, we will descend by the normal route pass the Independencia Camp to Berlin Huts too and continue descend to our Nido de condores Camp. Were we spend the last night here in the high altitude.   

Or if we have a good fitness we continue to back down to Plaza de Mulas, we arrive in Plaza de Mulas around 6 or 7 pm.

 
Day 22: Last night on the Andes mountain.
Today, we will awake tired but elated. Unlike the previous day, we can afford to let the sunlight bathe and warm our tents before we make an appearance, ready for breakfast. However, once up, it will be a race to get ready and to make a rapid descent down scress to base camp, where the staff will be waiting to share in the excitement of our ascent. We should all have retuned to base camp, by mid-afternoon at the latest, which will give us plenty of time for a shower, to relax and to prepare our bags for the walkout.

Our final lunch and dinner will be especially welcome, and dutifully prepared, as ever - and no doubt accompanied by beer and wine to help the celebrations take root.   

Day 23: After the summit day we have a full resting time in Plaza de Mulas, for a recover the full power on our body’s  for the next day hiking back down  to Penitentes Vilages. Hotel.
 
Day 24: Exit National Park and return to Mendoza
Today is a long day's trek all the way down the Horcones Valley to the National Park entrance. We will need to start early today (no later than 9 o'clock, if possible) in order to make the journey all the way back to Mendoza. The walk will take about 7 hours, with little time to linger over lunch. After arriving back at the gate, at about 4 p.m., therefore, we then have a 3-hour road journey back to town, where we would expect to be back in the hotel, in time for a quick turnaround, and shower, before heading off for a restaurant at about 9 p.m. along with our local guides in order to celebrate our expedition (which is when the locals go out to eat anyway.)
 
Day 25: Fly from Mendoza to Buenos Aires or Santiango de Chile.
Today, we fly from Mendoza to Buenos Aires and a hotel right the centre of the city. This gives very quick access to the main shopping areas, as well as to the dockside area, which has recently been developed. Within easy reach of the hotel, therefore, you can shop for the latest polo tack or "Gucci" handbags, sample traditional restaurants or relax in modern eateries, catering to a wide range of tastes, from steak to wok.  Or if do you cach your International home this day well be very good for you. Oterh ways do you need another day extra in one of the city’s i mention for you Fly back to home.

Buenos Aires in Argentina and Santiaga de Chile in Chile buoyant are a largest city’s in Latin America and the largest Spanish-speaking city in the world. According to peoples' wishes, the leader can arrange a city sightseeing tour, or a guided visit to a local ecological reserve. Alternatively, you might fancy a tango lesson, or try your hand at riding "gaucho" style. After a full day, in the early evening, we leave for the airport and each the flight back for your home.   

Day 26: To day you are at your home US. O Europe.

 
Contact us:
EAI -Ramírez Dávalos 136 y Amazonas 1er Piso. Oficina 102
E-mail: eai@volcanoclimbing.com - Telephone #: (593) 2 2565-465 | (593) 2 2568-949 | (593) 9 600-4090
Quito, Ecuador