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scaling Peru Climbing School - Urus, Ishinca, Toclaraju Expeditions

TRAINING PROGRAM

TRAINING PROGRAM

This trip is physically demanding and requires a good physical condition. We suggest you begin your training program at least two months prior to departure. While strength is important, endurance training should be your primary goal. Walking up hills and climbing are both excellent ways to improve the condition of your body.

Begin slowly, without the weight of a pack, eventually adding weight as you increase your training level. Take a long hike (4-6 hours) several times with a weighted pack (40-60 lbs.) up and down hills or on small mountains (weight your pack with water containers and draw the water before descending, to minimize knee stress). Also do some running, cycling, swimming, racquet sports, basketball, etc, for additional aerobic conditioning. If possible try to take at least two longer hikes of 6-10 hours on at least 3,000 feet elevation. Several days before your departure you should rest and drink plenty of water.

FOOD: Ecuadorian Alpine Institute provides gourmet mountain cuisine. All of the meals from the trail head and back will be provided, including pastas, rice, soups, dehydrated and fresh food. A good diet while climbing at high altitude consists of what your body needs and will process more easily during your climb. This is important because certain food will tire you out more than supply you with positive physical energy and endurance. At E.A.I. we provide you with a lean, healthy and complete energy diet, because we are aware and concerned of the benefits it has on the body and mentality of a climber. Of course you bring along your favorite snack foods, energy bars, and after dinner treats. Trip members will help prepare meals and clean up in order to become comfortable with expedition cooking

WEATHER: Like all big mountains, the peaks of the Andes generate and attract their own weather, making conditions impossible to predict. April through August typically have the best weather, but be prepared for a wide range of temperatures, from freezing nights and snowy, windy conditions, to bright sunshine intensified by high altitude. The wide fluctuation in temperatures makes it important to bring everything on the equipment list, which we send when you contact us.


Booking

URUS, ISHINCA, TOCLARAJU ITINERAY: 16 days

Day 1: Arrival in Perú. EAI.
Guides meet you on your arrival at the airport in Lima and take you to an hotel near to the airport
Day 2: Lima to Huaraz.
We leave Lima to Huaraz at 5am. After 3 hours we stop to have breakfast on the way. After a 9-10 hours ride with private bus from Lima, we arrive in the town of Huaraz, the economic center of the Cordillera Blanca. We spend the next nights in a small hotel. The accommodations are not deluxe but are comfortable. Near the hotel, there is a nice restaurant, the central City and Andean Markets.
Day 3: Visit to the market.
This day we visit the colorful market to purchase fresh fruits and vegetables for our climbs, and relax during the afternoon before going to our adventure travels in the surrounding mountains. Night at the hotel.
Day 4: Churup Lake.
We leave after breakfast to hike up to Churup Lake above Huaraz for acclimatization and get ourselves prepared at altitude. In the evening we make final preparations of all our material, clothing, mountain gear etc. for our trek into the Ishinca Valley. Night at the hotel.
Day 5: Ishinca Valley.
After breakfast we start driving to the village of Collon. In this village EAI. pays the fees for the National Park to go into the area of Ishinca. After loading mules or “donkeys” with our food and equipment we begin the trek up the Ishinca Valley. Our hike to the camp will take about 6-7 hours. With the exception of several high camps, this will be our camp for the duration of the expedition. We will stay in tents near to a refuge that offers the chance to take showers.
Day 6: Resting day for acclimatization.
We will have the opportunity to review some skills development today, before our climbs, also crevasse rescue, rope glacier travel, altitude physiology, route and weather advices. This day helps for acclimatization .There is an opportunity to rock climb here, too.
Day 7: Urus Ascent.
We wake up early at 4am. for the ascent of Urus. After breakfast we leave our camp at 5am. Our route up the southeast ridge is rocky and on snow, for this reason it presents a few difficulties to pass, climb in the nicer glacier for final steep summit slope. Roundtrip will take between 10-12 hours.
Day 8: Ishinca Camp. Resting morning.
This day we move to our high camp at Ishinca. After lunch we leave to base camp at 1pm. We hike up with all the mountain gear, arrival at Ishinca Camp at 3 or 4 pm. Settle in our nice “house” tents, rest and dinner.
Day 9: Glacier Skills.
After breakfast we move up to the very glacier. We'll learn and practice rope-handling, glacier travel, snow climbing and basic crevasse rescue, self-arrest and more safety techniques. This day we have early dinner and early to bed before our ascent of the mountain.
Day 10: Ishinca Ascent.
We wake up early in the morning at 2am, have breakfast and prepare all our mountain gear. Our ascent of Ishinca goes over an easy glacier terrain, perfect for improving our rope travelling techniques. Our way up is on one route and descending through another way near to the foot of Ranrapalca mountain. Of course, if time and conditions permit, we may be able to traverse the peak. After the climb we return to high camp, where we spend the night or pack up and return to base camp.
Day 11: Rest and relax in camp:
we have this day to play soccer in the high camp with the local kids. Also to prepare all our gear for next big climb.
Day 12: Move to high Camp.
After breakfast we leave our base camp, once again, we make our way to a higher camp to climb our main objective- 19,791feet ( 6034Mt.) Nevado Toclaraju. From our high camp at 17,200 feet (5244Mt.) we have incredible views of the surrounding peaks, the valley and lakes. Dinner and early to bed.
Day 13: Toclaraju Summitt.
We leave early in the morning at 2am. This will be a long day for the climb of Toclaraju 19,791 feet (6034Mt.) Easy to moderate glacier terrain leads to the final piramidal summit, where we find several steep snow and ice pitches up to 60 degrees. The ascent of this peak is more technical and will challenge all of the skills we have developed. If we have good weather conditions the view is incredible around Toclaraju’s summit. From the summit we descend to our high camp for one final night in Cordillera Blanca.
Day 14: Return to Huaraz.
Return to base camp at Ishinca Valley and hike out through the road that heads to Huaraz. In the evening we have a celebration dinner with local drinks (Pisco Sour), also some salsa dancing.
Day 15: Return to Lima. After breakfast we leave Huaraz with private bus returning to Lima. Flight back home
Day 16: Arrival at home

DEPARTURE DATES FOR URUS, ISHINCA, TOCLARAJU

16 Days.

  • Usually in June

ALPAMAYO EXTENSION TRIP,

12 Days.

  • Usually in June and July

If you prefer other daparture days, we can organize the trip, too. Also for Alpamayo trip, if you want to climb just Alpamayo, we do organize this expedition as well.

NOTE ON ITINERARY

Although we do our best to follow the schedule above, this itinerary is subject to changes due to weather, route conditions, and other factors beyond our control.

GENERAL INFORMATION

This trip is subject to the booking information in Ecuadorian Alpine Institute trip application.

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