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scaling Pisco, Chopicalqui Expeditions

Climbing School Cordillera Blanca

TRAINING PROGRAM

This trip is physically demanding and requires a good physical condition. We suggest you begin your training program at least two months prior to departure. While strength is important, endurance training should be your primary goal. Walking up hills and climbing are both excellent ways to improve the condition of your body.

Begin slowly, without the weight of a pack, eventually adding weight as you increase your training level. Take a long hike (4-6 hours) several times with a weighted pack (40-60 lbs.) up and down hills or on small mountains (weight your pack with water containers and draw the water before descending, to minimize knee stress). Also do some running, cycling, swimming, racquet sports, basketball, etc, for additional aerobic conditioning. If possible try to take at least two longer hikes of 6-10 hours on at least 3,000 feet elevation. Several days before your departure you should rest and drink plenty of water.

FOOD: Ecuadorian Alpine Institute provides gourmet mountain cuisine. All of the meals from the trail head and back will be provided, including pastas, rice, soups, dehydrated and fresh food. A good diet while climbing at high altitude consists of what your body needs and will process more easily during your climb. This is important because certain food will tire you out more than supply you with positive physical energy and endurance. At E.A.I. we provide you with a lean, healthy and complete energy diet, because we are aware and concerned of the benefits it has on the body and mentality of a climber. Of course you bring along your favorite snack foods, energy bars, and after dinner treats. Trip members will help prepare meals and clean up in order to become comfortable with expedition cooking

WEATHER: Like all big mountains, the peaks of the Andes generate and attract their own weather, making conditions impossible to predict. April through August typically have the best weather, but be prepared for a wide range of temperatures, from freezing nights and snowy, windy conditions, to bright sunshine intensified by high altitude. The wide fluctuation in temperatures makes it important to bring everything on the equipment list, which we send when you contact us.


Booking

PISCO CHOPICALQUI ITINERARY: 18 days

Day 1: Flight to Lima Peru. EAI.
Guides meet to you on your arrival at the airport of Lima and take you to an hotel near to the airport.
Day 2: Lima- Huaraz.
We leave Lima to Huaraz at 5am. After 3 hours we stop for breakfast on the way. After a 9-10 hours ride with privat bus from Lima, we arrive at the town of Huaraz, the bustling economic center of the Cordillera Blanca. We spend the next nights in a small hotel. The accommodations are not deluxe but are comfortable. Near the hotel there is a nice restaurant, near to the central City and Andean Markets.
Day 3: Visit to the market.
This day we visit the colorful market to purchase fresh fruits and vegetables for our climbs and relax afternoon before going to our adventure travel in the surrounding mountains. Night at the hotel.
Day 4: Base camp of Pisco.
After Breakfast we will drive 3 hours to Cebolla Pampa, the base camp of Pisco. This base camp elevation is about 12,000 feet (3658mt.) and located in Quebrada Llanganuco above two beautiful lakes. From the base camp we will take a short afternoon hike.
Day 5: Acclimmatization at Portachuelo de Llanganuco Valley.
This day we continue our process of acclimatization with a hike to Portachuelo de Llanganuco Valley, a 15,635 feet (4767mt.). We pass above Cebolla Pampa with incredible views around us, like Chopakalki, Huascaran, Pisco, the Huandoy group and many other peaks of the incredible Cordillera Blanca. We hike through a nice paramo. Don’t forget the camera to take several pictures.
Day 6: Climbing School:
Continue in our process of acclimatization. This day we hike up to our intermediate high camp. With the support of donkeys tor carry our gear, this will be a reasonable 5-6 hours hike up with only daypacks on our backs.
Day 7: Climbing to high camp.
This day the climbing will demand that we carry heavy packs in our backs, we move to high camp, where we will establish this first high camp 3-4 hours approximately between the camps. Prepare for our summit climbing day.
Day 8: Summit day.
After an early morning departure at 3:00 am. we arrive at the summit of Nevado Pisco Oeste 19,300 feet (5884mt.) This summit offers unsurpassed views from the gigantic peaks, glaciers stretch in all direction. It will help us to acclimatize, as well as provide us with an opportunity to improve our skills for our next climb. And then return to our intermediate camp for the night.
Day 9: Resting Morning. Early in the morning return to base camp. Where we rest and prepare for our ascent to Chopicalqui base Camp.
Day 10: Full resting day in our base Camp at 12,500 feet (3810mt.)
Day 11: Moraine Camp.
After breakfast we move to the Moraine Camp 1 located about 16,075 feet (4900mt) This day we will be assisted to get our mountain gear to Camp.
Day 12: High camp 2.
After moving through the moraine above camp1 we rope and climb on the glacier to our high camp 2) about 17,056 feet (5200mt). Climbers will follow our guide and his instructions. Other option is resting in the moraine camp 1.
Day 13: Prepare for Summit.
This day we move at the high camp with all our mountain gear. An early dinner and then rest for the early wake up.
Day 14: Summit day.
Wake up early. Relatively straightforward glacier travel leads to the saddle between Chopakalki and the fascinating east ridge of Huascaran Sur. From the saddle glacier slopes interspersed with short steep sections (up to 60 degrees) lead to the wildly corniced and fluted summit at 20,842feet (6354mt). This is an grate day! Return to the Moraine Camp. (There is one days reserved for the summit climb, if we have bad weather.)
Day 15: Return to Huaraz.
This day return to Huaraz, as you will need some rest and relaxation. We will have a celebration and traditional Peruvian dinner. If you like and have a good condition after the high climb we go for a salsa dancing.
Day 16: Resting day in Huaraz.
Day 17: Return to Lima, flight in the night.
Day 18: Arrival at home. USA.

DEPARTURE DATES FOR PISCO & CHOPICALUQUI

18 Days.

  • May. 31st to June. 17th - 2008
  • Jun. 26th to July. 02nd – 2008

ALPAMAYO EXTENTION TRIP

12 Days.

  • Jun. 22nd to July. 03rd 2008
  • July. 13th to July. 24th 2008

If you would like this departures dates or if you have some other special departure dates more convenient for you, we organize the Itinerary according to your needs. Also for Alpamayo trip if you like to climbing just Alpamayo we do organize the trip just for this mountain, too.

NOTE ON ITINERARY

Although we do our best to follow the schedule above, this itinerary is subject to changes due to weather, route conditions, and other factors beyond our control.

GENERAL INFORMATION

This trip is subject to the booking information on the Ecuadorian Alpine Institute trip application. We ask you to read this information carefully and to call us or write if you have any more questions.

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