Detailed Itinerary (6 Days)
Day 1: Acclimatization Pichincha (4.794m / 15.724ft)
We leave Quito at 8:30 AM after breakfast, we travel to the Teleferique in Quito to make an initial height gain. We take our first acclimatization ascent on the 4.794m (15.724ft) peak of the active volcano Rucu Pichincha. Quito is nestled on the slopes of this active volcano. Our primary goal here is to help each team member to start testing his or her response to higher elevation, and to give our bodies a chance to get used to altitude, while enjoying the many photographic opportunities. Afternoon return to the hotel. (--./L./--)
Day 2: Ilinizas Refuge (4.600m / 15.092ft)
After breakfast a mid-morning departure from Quito to Ilinizas parking lot. We will leave Quito south through the Panamericana Highway, where we cross a rich green and fertile valley, commonly referred to as "The Valley of the Volcanoes". After one and a half hours we will arrive at a remote paramo in an area called La Virgen. From here it is a 3 hours hike up to the refuge with our full back packing on us, the refuge is located at 4.600m. Dinner and sleep in the refuge. (/- /L./D)
Day 3: Iliniza North (5.125m/16.815ft)
Wake up early in the morning at 5:00 AM. Breakfast, and departure to our 5.125m summit day attempt on Iliniza Norte. This peak is normally a fairly straight forward climb, that sometimes requires acclimatization days. The trail on the mountain is sound and easy during almost all the way, if the weather conditions are bad and cloudy, it is very easy to lose your bearings. On one part of the route we will use a fixed rope to pass or negotiate "Death Pass." After this pass we reach the summit. The average time to the summit is 3 hours. Pictures time, lunch, descend during one and a half hours to reach the refuge, resting before going down to the parking lot. Our private car 4x4 transportation will take us to a hotel near to Cotopaxi, into the Cotopaxi National Park for a very good restfull night. Hostal Tambopaxi (B./L./--)
3 DAYS AT COTOPAXI
Day 4: Tambopaxi – Cotopaxi Glacier school day
Wake up at 7:00 AM. Reconfortable breakfast at Tambopaxi. We go up to the refuge at 8.00 AM. to continue our altitude acclimatization and the training on procedures of climbing Cotopaxi. The Cotopaxi car parking lot is located at 4.550m (14.924ft). From here we have a 45 minutes hike up with full packs to the Jose Rivas Refuge on the Cotopaxi flank north West at 4.800m (15.744ft). After arrival at the hut, we will enjoy hot tea and a short rest before climbing school training. After a short rest we can go into the glacier around 11:00 AM and work on the moderate glacier section, a good area to familiarize ourselves with the various climbing techniques and equipment. Your guide will ensure you have the necessary glacier skills and all the techniques for climbing the high peaks like Cayambe, Cotopaxi, Chimborazo and other mountains, too. You'll learn and practice rope-handling, glacier travel, snow climbing, basic crevasse rescue skills, and safety techniques. The general procedures for high peak mountains. After 5 hours training we will return to the refuge around 5:00 PM. Lunch on the glacier. Late in the afternoon we can go back down to sleep at. Tambopaxi Hostel (B./L./--) Delicious dinner, relax full night.
Day 5: Tambopaxi resting morning
Afternoon we can move up to the refuge again to continue our process to climb volcano Cotopaxi. EAI guide continues in your process of training with ropes, handling knots, Prussick loops to get familiarized with crevasses rescue. Also focus on good practices for safe climbing in the night into mountain glaciers. We do prepare our mountain gear for a midnight departure to Cotopaxi summit day as well. Early dinner and early to bed, usually by 6:30 P.M. (B./L./D)
Day 6: Cotopaxi-summit (5.897m / 19.427ft)
Wake up at midnight. Breakfast and equipment check-up. We leave the refuge at 1:00 A.M. We will pass a group of uniform slopes and ice ramps of 30 and 35 degrees before reaching a glacier platform. We will enjoy one of the spectacular color displays in the Andes. From this point we will see the valley below us, where the morning sunrise welcomes us with incredible colors. Our route will pass under a base of rock 400 feet wide called Yanasacha. The quichua name says it all, it’s a black wall of impressive size. The Indians called it The Route of The Moon. Here we start climbing glacier slopes of 35 and 45 degrees, at the top of which we will only have 15 more minutes climb to emerge onto Ecuador's second highest summit: Volcano Cotopaxi at 5.897m (19.427ft.) Our approximate climbing time will be 7 hours. Return to the refuge around 9:00 or 10:00 A.M. Rest and hike back down to the 4 x 4 vehicle to return to your next destination trip or back to Quito for a restful night. (B./L./)
The price includes:
- Bilingual certified guide. (ASEGUIM MEMBERS ONLY)
- Hotel (Two nights at Tambopaxi,)
- Private transportation Toyota 4x4WD vehicles.
- All meals while on the climbing trip. (If you have a special diet, no problem)
- Refuge fees.
- Some mountain gear (boots, crampons, ice axe, harness and carabineer.)
- Rope and technical climbing gear.
Do not included:
- Accommodation in Quito
- Dinners (at Tambopaxi)
- Insurance.
- Personal climbing gear.
- Tips
IMPORTANT: The client is responsible for additional expenses incurred due to changes/variations in the above itinerary (food, gas, hotels, guide, etc...)
P.D. For abbreviation fraises is, Breakfast (B) Lunch (L) and Dinner (D).
BASIC EQUIPMENT LIST (minimum required for this trip):
GoreTex type jacket, Fleece, Thermals, Pair of light inner gloves, Balaclava or polypropylene cap, Wool or synthetic socks, Headlamp, Glacier glasses / dark sunglasses Sleeping bag (20-30 degress Fahrenheit), Backpack, Trekking Boots, ski poles, 3 pair outer socks, 3 pair liners, 2 pair long underwear, worm jacket, down jacket, Gore-Tex parka, worm pants, Gore-Tex pants or bib, 2 pair glove liners.