scaling Climbing Cayambe, Cotopaxi & Chimborazo

Expeditions Ecuador

The volcanoes of Ecuador are well known among climbers.

Chimborazo is the furthest point from the center of the earth (due to our planet's equatorial 'bulge') Our expedition to the highest mountain in Ecuador during the 16-days itinerary, includes a thorough acclimatization program and glacier skills training, as well as climbing activity and a variety of technical equipment on a natural mountaineering environment.

This 16-days trip also enables us to experience the landscape, culture and people of the smallest Andean country. During the expedition, we climb 5 volcanoes. The first 2 objectives provide good acclimatization, before we move on to Cayambe for a two-day glacier training program, culminating in an ascent of this popular peak. Cayambe provides the team members with the skills, fitness and degree of acclimatization necessary for success on the two higher peaks of Cotopaxi and Chimborazo. The expedition's 5 objectives, in order of ascents, are:

Ecuador is perhaps the easiest and most pleasant of South American countries to travel in. Its capital city, Quito, has a beautifully preserved colonial character architecture, an altitude of 2.800 mt, it has an invigorating spring-like climate. During the expedition, we will have time to explore Quito and its enchanting Indian markets.

After arrival, pick-up for the first night in the hotel, we will spend 16 days in Ecuador including a day visiting the Indian market of Otavalo (one of the most famous in South America). Other resting days will include Baños, a quiet and relaxing city to store up our energy after reaching the highest peaks.

The tour will begin in Ecuador with a climbing acclimatization at Guagua Pichincha 4.794m (15.724ft) or Rucu Pichincha 4.627m (15.176ft.) We propose the three following mountains to begin the "real" adventure: Cayambe 5.790m (18.991 ft), is the third highest mountain, Cotopaxi volcano 5.897m (19.342ft), is the world's highest active volcano and Chimborazo 6.310m (20.696ft).


Booking

Detailed Itinerary (16 Days)

Day 01: Arrival in Quito.
Transfer to hotel. We suggest you arrive in Quito on Friday, EAI staff will meet you on arrival and give you an initial program orientation.
Day 02: Otavalo.
The first full day in Ecuador we drive north to Otavalo, the market town. During this day, you will get a very nice idea of and indigenous population and the products they sale at the market. Our visit is timed for shopping day. You need to be very discrete while taking pictures, because this population doesn`t like being pictured. The Otavaleño Indians come down from their small villages in the surrounding mountains to sell their agricultural products and handycrafts. After a morning exploring and photographing, as well as shopping time, we hike one hill above the town of Otavalo and San Pablo lake, the biggest lake in Ecuador. After one and a half hours we stop for our lunch at a typical restaurant. For sure we have a typical meal of Otavaleños, and of course, of Ecuadorian cuisine, too. Afternoon drive back to Quito, of course we stop briefly at the Equatorial Monument or Equatorial line to take nice pictures in the latitude 00,00. After the pictures we continue driving to Quito. B/L/-
Day 03: Pichincha.
We take our acclimatization ascent on the Guagua Pichincha or Ruco Pichincha volcano at 4.800m. (13.773ft) We drive from Quito for half an hour to the Cruz Loma area at 3.900m (12.792ft). Quito is nestled on the slopes of this active volcano. Our primary goal here is to help each team member to start testing his or her response to higher elevation, and to give our bodies a chance to get used to higher altitude. We hike from Cruz Loma to a very nice paramo valley, we cross and hike a sand slope and rock climbing during a short part and easy climb, too. For all this strech we need 4 hours up to reach our summit. Lunch, rest, photos etc.! Return 2 hours down to arrive at the parking lot, in this way, if the weather conditions are nice, we may have many photographic opportunities from Quito and other beautiful scenic areas! Afternoon drive back to Quito. B/L/-
Day 04: Quito City Tour.
We offer a scenic tour through Quito, a city of contrast between the Spanish colonial displays, pre-colombian art and Inca culture. We also visit the national ethnological museum, which provides a good introduction to the history of Ecuador, several of the city's most interesting colonial churches, and the busy and traditional central market. Free afternoon. B/-/-
Day 05: Quito- Cayambe.
Depart from Quito at 9:00 A.M., and arrive at the Cayambe volcano refuge by 3:00 P.M. (4.700m / 15.416ft). Lunch included. Located northeast of Quito on the eastern ridge of the Andes, Cayambe is Ecuador's third highest peak and stands at 5.790m (18.991ft.). The glacier of this mountain is large and among the most active of all equatorial ice flows, and its varied glacial terrain here provides an excellent training ground and a rewarding summit climb. Overnight at the refuge. B/L/D
Day 06: Cayambe Glaciers School Day.
Wake up at 7:00 A.M. for breakfast. We continue adjusting to altitude acclimatization. We go on the glacier at 8:30 A.M and engage in the moderate glacier section a good activity, where we will familiarize ourselves with the various climbing techniques, equipment work for climbing. Our guide trains you on glacier skills and all necessary techniques for climbing the high peaks like Cayambe, Cotopaxi, Chimborazo and other mountains, too. We'll learn and practice rope-handling, glacier travel, snow climbing, basic crevasse rescue skills and safety techniques. The general procedures for high peak mountains. After 6 hours training, we go back to the refuge for delicious lunch and resting afternoon, of course we get prepared for a midnight departure to Cayambe summit day. Early dinner and early to bed, usually by 6:30 P.M. B/L/D
Day 07: Cayambe Summit.
Wake up at midnight. Breakfast and final equipment check up. We leave the refuge at 1:00 A.M. and climb with headlamps for the first 4 hours. We have an easy glacier climb to a saddle and then continue onto steeper and exciting grounds. We'll traverse around large crevasses and pass some spectacular seracs. Climb 40 degree slopes with occasional short, steeper sections. The final Cayambe summit is reached at about 9:00 A.M. You will have a view of photogenic lines and spectacular mountains. Return to the refuge around 2:00 P.M. In the afternoon we drive down to Guachala Hacienda and overnight there. Guachala is an old hacienda from the colonial architecture and is very good for a relaxing night. B/L/-
Day 08: Oyacachi Hot Springs.
From Guachala: Breakfast at 8:00 A.M. Depart from the hacienda to the hot springs of Oyacachi to swim at the hot water pools. This area is on the East cordillera of Ecuador at 3200m. After relaxing time we drive to La Cienega hotel near to the Volcano Cotopaxi. This is an old hacienda, which will serve us to have a restful night for our bodies, and to get prepared for our climb of Cotopaxi volcano. B/-/-
Day 09: Cotopaxi.
Today we leave this fertile and rich green valley at 10:00 A.M. and drive east into the Cotopaxi National Park, where our driving destination ends at the Cotopaxi parking lot located at 4.203m (13.787ft.) From here we have a 45 minutes hike with full packs up to the Jose Rivas Refuge on the flank of Cotopaxi at 4.795m (15.729ft.) After arrival at the hut, we will enjoy a hot tea and a short rest, before heading out to the glacier for an afternoon review of technical training and equipment preparation. Supper late in the afternoon and then early to bed at 6:30 P.M. B/L/D
Day 10: Cotopaxi Summit. Wake up at midnight. Breakfast and equipment check-up.
We leave the refuge at 1:00 A.M. We will pass a group of uniform slopes and ice ramps of 30 and 35 degrees before reaching a glacier platform. We enjoy one of the spectacular color displays in the Andes. From this point we see the valley below us, where the morning sunrise welcomes us with incredible colors. Our route will pass under a base of rock 400 feet wide called Yanasacha. The quichua name says it all, it is a black wall of impressive size. The indians called it The Route of the Moon. Here we start climbing glacier slopes of 35 and 45 degrees, at the top of which we will only have 15 more minutes climb to emerge onto Ecuador's second highest summit: Volcano Cotopaxi at 5.897m (19.427ft.) Our approximate climbing time will be 7 hours. Return to the refuge around 9:00 or 10:00 A.M. Rest and hike back down to the 4 x 4 vehicles and then return to Hostería La Cienega for a restful night before our Chimborazo adventure. B/-/-
Day 11: Chimborazo first refuge.
Depart from la Cienega at 10:00 A.M. Drive south of Cotopaxi passing the agricultural towns of Latacunga and Ambato. 5 hours drive crossing agricultural and indigenous areas, where a picture or two may attract you. We will arrive at the Carrell refuge of Chimborazo at 3:00 or 4:00 PM. Dinner and sleep. B/L/D
Day 12: Chimborazo second refuge. Breakfast at 8:00 A.M.
Relaxing mid morning, and then we take off for a 40 minutes walk with full packs, which will lead us up to the Whimper hut on the Chimborazo west flank, located at 5.000m (16.400ft.) Resting afternoon. Dinner early and early to bed (6:30 P.M.). B/L/D
Day 13: Chimorazo Summit – Baños.
Chimborazo is Ecuador's highest peak and a massive glaciated volcano that consists of five summits. Rise at midnight for breakfast and equipment check-up. Leave the hut at 1:00 A.M. We move immediately to the huge glacier on Chimborazo's southwest face, where we first traverse moderately angled ice slopes, climb through a series of icefalls and up to the steep ice ramps. Climbing simultaneously on moderate grounds belaying up the steep pitches. Our team will rope together in order to cross crevasses and finally make it to the summit. This is the highest point of the Andes, and from here we have a magnificent view of the emerging volcanoes that form the eastern and western Cordillera. The mentioned volcanoes seem to emerge from the clouds below our feet. Our approximate climbing time is 8 to 9 hours up and 3 or 4 hours down to the refuge. Return to the refuge around noon. Lunch and travel to Baños (arrival in Baños at 6:00 P.M.) B/L/-
Day 14: Baños.
We relax in the valley town of Baños, where the lush vegetation is home of an unusual variety of orchids, mountains, warm temperature, flowers, birds, many butterflies, hummingbirds and more species to look. We have a full day activity visiting the very nice waterfalls on the way to the jungle, on this road it is possible to go with bicycle and enjoy a very nice nature, awesome waterfalls in our way. We will walk on the Pailon del Diablo waterfall during 2 hours and look the jungle forest. We visit the Inez Maria waterfall on the Pastaza River, and of course, our last visit to the Zoo, too. We will enjoy the nature the whole day. Back to town here you may choose to hike or relax in the town. B/-/-
Day 15: Baños – Quito.
Drive back to Quito. Departing from Baños at 10:00 A.M. and arriving at your hotel around 2:00 P.M. Free afternoon. In the night celebration and farewell dinner. B/-/-
Day 16: Departure transfer to your international flight.

Calendars for group outings - 2012

CAYAMBE COTOPAXI CHIMBORAZO 16 DAYS
Month Group Date
MAY ECUA/01 FRI. 4TH - SAT. 19TH
JUNE ECUA/01 FRI. 01ST - SAT. 16TH
  ECUA/02 FRI. 15TH - SAT. 30TH
SEPTEMBER ECUA/01 FRI. 14TH - SAT. 29TH
OCTOBER ECUA/01 FRI. 12TH - SAT. 27TH
NOVEMBER ECUA/01 FRI. 02ND TO SAT. 17TH
  ECUA/02 FRI. 16TH TO SAR. DEC. 01ST
DECEMBER ECUA/01 FRI. 07TH TO SAT. 22ND
  ECUA/02 FRI. 21ST TO SAT. JAN. 5TH 2013
DECEMBER 2012 - JANURARY 2013 ECUA/01 FRI. 28TH - SAT. 12TH
JANUARY 2013 ECUA/01 FRI. 4TH - SAT. 19T
FEBRUARY 2013 ECUA/01 FRI. 8TH - SAT. 23RD
MARCH 2013 ECUA/01 FRI. 01ST - SAT. 16TH
MAY 2013 ECUA/01 FRI. 10TH - SAT 25TH
JUNE 2013 ECUA/01 MAY 31st - SAT. 15TH JUNE
  ECUA/02 FRI. 14TH - SAT. 29TH
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