EXPEDITION ITINERARY ECUADOR-ARGENTINA ACONCAGUA 22 DAYS CLIMBING EXPEDITION TRIP
Day 1: Arrival at Quito.
Pick up at the airport, transfer IN to hotel. Hotel Embassy
Day 2: Pasochoa (4199m/13,773ft)
We depart at 8.30 a.m. towards the 30 km south of Quito located Cerro Pasochoa at 4199m.(13773ft) It is an ancient and highly eroded volcano, which has been inactive since the last ice age. We drive until the car park, from where we follow the track as it contours the eastside of the mountain heading towards the rocky peak. This easy ascent will take us 3-4 hours to reach the summit. Rest during one hour, lunch in this time, and a 2 hours hike down to the parking lot. Drive back to Quito in the afternoon. Hotel Embassy. (B./BL./--)
Day 3: Ruco Pichincha (4794m /15,724ft)
We take our first acclimatization ascent on the 4794m (15,724ft) Ruco Pichincha, which is a very good mountain for beginning the process to acclimatize, we take the route and hike up to arrive at the summit, the other one is more interesting, you learn to climb the volcanic rack, we do climb direct ,we use ropes to ensure a safe climb with the harness and pruxicks. On this way we cross the death pass, where it is impressive to learn how you can make the difficult pass, after this you can go easily to the top. From here you can see Quito City, as well as other very nice panoramas, too. Quito is nestled on the slopes of this beautiful mountain. Our primary goal here is to help each team member to start testing his or her response to higher elevation and to give our bodies a chance to get used to altitude, while enjoying the many photographic opportunities. In the afternoon drive back to Quito. Hotel Embassy. (B./BL./--)
Day 4: Refugio ILINIZAS (4.600m/15,088ft)
After breakfast a mid-morning departure from Quito to Ilinizas and to the parking lot. We travel along the Panamericana high way, passing very nice agricultural and green areas and watching many volcanoes in front of us. You will have a nice view and good time for pictures. We will arrive at a remote area called “paramo” that is near to an area called La Virgen. From here it is a 3 hours hike up to the refuge with our full back packing on us, the refuge is located at 4,600m. Dinner and sleep in the refuge. B/L/D
Day 5: ILINIZA NORTE (5.125m/16,810ft)
Wake-up early in the morning at 5 AM. Breakfast. and departure to our 5,125m summit day attempt on Iliniza North. This peak is normally a fairly straight forward climb, that sometimes requires some acclimatization days. The trail on this mountain may present difficulties to find the way, if the weather conditions are bad and cloudy, it may be easy to lose the way. On one part of the way we will use a fixed rope to pass or negotiate "Death Pass." After this pass we have the summit. Three hours average to reach the summit. Pictures time, Lunch. Descent for one 1,1/2 hours to the refuge, resting before going down to the parking lot. In our private car 4x4 we will drive to an hotel near to Cotopaxi National Park. Hotels, La Estación, La Ciénega or Volcano Land.
Day 6: Cotopaxi Glaciers SCHOOL .
We leave from the hotel after breakfast, where our driving destination ends at the Cotopaxi car park, located at (4550m/14,924ft.) From here we have a 45 minutes hike up to the Jose Rivas Refuge on the Cotopaxi flank north West at 4800m (15,744ft.) We do continue adjusting to altitude acclimatization. We go on the glacier and engage in the moderate glacier section a good activity, where we will familiarize ourselves with the various climbing techniques, equipment work for climbing. Our guide trains you on glacier skills, all necessary techniques for climbing the high peaks like Cayambe, Cotopaxi, Chimborazo. etc. etc. etc... and other mountains, too. We'll learn and practice rope-handling, glacier travel, snow climbing, basic crevasse rescue skills and safety techniques, all the general procedures for climbing the highest mountain peaks. After 6 hours training we get back to the refuge and continue down back to Tambopaxi. (B./BL./--)
Day 7: COTOPAXI JOSE RIVAS HUT Today we do have a mid morning resting on Tambopaxi.
After a big lunch in Tambopaxi, we can move up to the Cotopaxi Refuge (4800m/15,744ft.) After arrival at the hut, we will enjoy a hot tea and a short rest before a training on handling rope nuts, Pruxiks etc for safety climb in the mountains. Rest, delicious dinner, relaxing. Of course we prepare our mountain gear for a midnight departure for Cotopaxi summit. Early dinner and early bed usually by 6:30 P.M. B/L/D
Day 8: Cotopaxi-summit (5897m/19,427ft) Wake up at midnight.
Breakfast and equipment check-up. We leave the refuge at 1:00 A.M. We will pass a group of uniform slopes and ice ramps of 30 and 35 degrees before reaching a glacier platform. We enjoy one of the spectacular color displays in the Andes. From this point we see the valley below us, where the morning sunrise welcomes us with incredible colors. Our route will pass under a base of rock 400 feet wide called Yanasacha. The quichua name says it all, its a black wall of impressive size. The Indians called it The Route of the Moon. Here we start climbing glacier slopes of 35 and 45 degrees, at the top of which we will only have 15 more minutes climb to emerge onto Ecuador's second highest summit: Volcano Cotopaxi at 5897m/19,427ft.) Our approximate climbing time will be 7 hours. Return to the refuge around 9:00 or 10:00 A.M. Rest and hike back down to our car park. Pick up our car and drive to Termas de Papallacta hot springs. (B./BL./--)
Day 9: Resting full day In Papallacta HOT SPRINGS. The hydrothermal value of Termas de Papallacta's Hot Springs is conformed because it’s location between two volcanoes, Volcano Cayambe and Volcano Antisana. The temperature of the thermal baths varies between 30°C and 70°C (86°F and 158°F). At the pools the temperature ranges from 36°C to 40°C (97°F to 104°F). Papallacta´s thermal waters contain sulfates, sodium, calcium, chloride and traces of magnesium, which are odourless, colourless but have a slightly salty taste. Besides improving intestinal function, the baths' curative properties are also anti-allergenic, anti-inflammatory, diuretic and anti-rheumatic. Lunch at 3pm. We come back to Quito to take the flight down to Mendoza in the evening 9:45pm. arriving in Mendoza the next day at 11:30 am. Transfer IN with EAI guide.
Day 10: TRANSFER IN TO MENDOZA – PERMITS ARRANGEMENT FOR ACONCAGUA PROVINCIAL PARK – PUENTE DEL INCA.
Today we can make the transfer IN to Mendoza city. EAI expeditions tour leader will finalize the papers to enter to Aconcagua Provincial Park. Here, we must complete our applications to enter the park. Ecuadorian Alpine Institute meets all permit charges, so all you will need is your passport, a copy of your insurance certificate and a biro. Once these minimal formalities are completed this morning in Mendoza, we may continue our drive! Immediately we take our privat mini bus to drive out form Mendoza city for 2 hours just to Uspallacta Village, which is on the way No 7 to have lunch at a very good restaurant (Don Pato), delicious local cuisine (Beef de Chorizo with red Wine) or other local very good cuisine.
Around 5pm we can leave Uspallacta just to Puente del Inca another 2 hours, we arrive at Puente del Inca around 7pm. Hotel at Puente del Inca, the altitude here is 2800m the same altitude of Quito. Dinner and resting full night. From Mendoza to Puente del Inca it is a 4 hours drive, 180 Kilometers on the route N 7, this route goes to Chile as well.
Day 11: HOSTERIA PUENTE DEL INCA RESTING FULL DAY. SWIMMING AT THE THERMAL POOL. CHECK IN ON THE ORNOES GUARDA PARQUES.
Hosteria Puente del Inca was built in 1925, being for its time a real luxury place available only for the most important personalities.
On the way to Las Cuevas (border with Chile) you can enjoy this curious geological formation at one of the most famous hot springs resorts of Argentina. Bathing in these waters is recommended for very different conditions, and added to the uniqueness of this natural monument and surrounding landscapes, Puente del Inca is a unique place.
Located on the Cordillera de los Andes, 2800 meters above the sea, Puente del Inca is famous for its natural bridge, unique geological curiosity in the world and declared a Natural Monument. The bridge has been formed by the action of mineral waters. The river flow is pushed through sediments deposited at the bottom and then hardened by the hot springs. These gives the area its color of oranges, yellows and ochres. The history of the bridge begins with the Inca Trail and their legends. It is assumed that it was known and frequented by this culture to harness the waters with healing properties. Its fame, is mainly due to its thermal baths. There are buildings on the side and under the bridge with small pools where the water runs hot springs, which come from natural springs. In the morning you can go to swim, small hike, you can feel free resting half day or you have time to check your personal climbing gear .
After lunch around 2pm our tour leader meets you to prepare everything for the next big day. All members of the group go up to Horcones entrance with your permits to CHECK IN, because the next day we can begin to hike at 7am in the morning from Horcones control gate. From Hosteria Puente del Inca to Horcones there are 3 km. We can hike or drive there, and come back to the hosteria the same way.
Immediately, we sort out our bags for the mules, as these will be taken early the next morning and delivered to Plaza de Mulas, our next stopping point at base camp. Dinner and Sleep. (B./--/--)
Day 12: PUENTE DEL INCA - HORCONES – CONFLUENCIAS – PLAZA DE MULAS.
Breakfast at 6:15am. We catch a private car from Hosteria Puente del Inca to meet the Horcones Guarda Parques entrance, where we already checked in the day before.
This day we begin our approach to Aconcagua. Mules will carry all of our expedition food and equipment, enabling us to enjoy this spectacular day hike with a light daypack. The trail follows the Horcones River to the junction of the Lower and the Upper Horcones River. After crossing the Lower Horcones on a footbridge, we continue up the river valley towards Confluencia (3400mts.), where we will pass this intermediate Camp. From Horcones to Confluencia we will hike 2h25, here we do have a one hour rest, drink a hot café to continue our long route.
While others climbers spend three nights at Confluencia in order to adequately acclimatize for climbing Aconcagua, EAI groups arrive here with very good acclimatization from Ecuador after climbing Mt. volcano Cotopaxi at 5897mts. This is a tough day - taking about 11-12 hours to reach the base camp Plaza de Mulas. We start relatively early at 7 am, armed with no less than 4 litters of water per person, as the valley that stretches ahead is hot, and dusty, even though a river runs across the wide plain of the valley floor.
After 4 hours walking along a very gentle rise, and avoiding river crossing, if possible, in order to keep our boots dry, the valley splits, and the route swings to the right (north). Here, we rest for lunch and prepare for the sudden rise in altitude that will accompany the afternoon's stroll. The path rises steeply to complete the hardest day of the expedition, so far. By the time we land in Plaza de Mulas, we will have climbed nearly 1,481 meters during the day.
We settle into our base camp tents, and get to know the local staff, who will support us from this point on. Set up our camp at 4200mts. Plaza de Mulas base Camp. (B./BL./D)
Day 13: AFTER THE LONG JOURNEY WE HAD THE DAY BEFORE, YOU NEED TO RECOVER ALL THE ENERGY (RESTING FULL DAY)
Today is just for resting full day and recover our energy at the new altitude on Aconcagua, at Plaza de Mulas base camp at 4200mts. A day off, allows everyone to readjust and to get ready for the ongoing climb upwards. EAI will supply with breakfast, lunch and dinner every day we are in the base camp, and also hot drinks will be provided regularly as well as water.
In the afternoon the expedition leader will prepare a list of what to take. At the same time, equipment will be prepared for the local porters to carry them, which ensures you will only have to carry your own personal equipment, with all the group’s stores and food being taken by the porters who support the team. Overnight at base camp Plaza de Mulas. (B./BL./D)
Day 14: Hike up Camp 1 Nido de Condores at (5,559m/ 17,100ft)
our first sleep at this high altitude to check our good acclimatization.
After Breakfast we move up at 9:30 am from the base camp Plaza de Mulas. We take our food and gear to leave it at Nido de Condores Camp and prepare the logistic at the camp 1 for the next expedition days on the very high altitude before attempting the summit. Today we carry gear up towards Camp I (17,100ft). From our base camp in Plaza de Mulas we follow the trail as it gradually switchbacks up steep screen slopes to the rock spires that mark Canada Camp at (5000m/16,500Ft), where we pass and follow up to Nido de Condores, our next camp 1. This usually takes 5-6 hours. Set up the tents; you have time to take nice pictures, if the weather conditions are good, you can see from here the sun set like in the ocean. Dinner at high altitude. Overnight at Nido de Condores to look at our acclimatization before going to our next high camp 2 Colera at 5890m. (19,437fee) (B./BL./D)
Day 15: breakfast at Nido de Condores.
Hike down to base camp Plaza de Mulas.
Today is just to look how our body is working after we slept and passed the night at high altitude. Around 11 am we can move down to Plaza de Mulas for a resting afternoon and recover energy.
Overnight at base camp Plaza de Mulas. (B./BL./D)
Day 16: Plaza de Mulas – Nido de Condores – Camp 2 Colera - 8 hours hike up.
After breakfast we can move at 9 am up to arrive at our camp II COLERA, which is a bit more higher than Berlin camp. Colera camp is located at 5970m. (19569Fee) 40 meters higher than Berlin.
Today we can make our first foray on to the mountain; from Plaza de Mulas to Colera we do have 1600m. In the first 3 hours climbing we meet Canada Camp, continue our climbing by the switchbacks, we pass slope changes, from here we use 1 more hour to arrive at Nido de Condores. Short resting here, eat, drink to continue our climb for another 3 hours. We follow the head trail up through the same route to Berlin camp towards many switchbacks, here you hike more slowly, you may feel low oxygen as well, after 3 hours in this way we meet the Berlin camp. From this point we cross just the last traversed part. After climbing a nice rimaya rack we meet the Colera Camp, were our tents are ready for resting full afternoon. This is a really useful day, and past experience has shown that by sleeping on the mountain at high altitude, our acclimatization will be given a huge boost, that will enable us to tackle the mountain with more energy and less difficulty, later on. Camp ll at Colera at (5970m/19,569ft) Dinner and Overnight.
EAI Leader checks the meteorology every day with the park authority by radio, if the weather condition is confirmed by Aconcagua park, the next day we can move up to make the Aconcagua Summit.. If so we can prepare all the personal gear this afternoon for the next morning climb. (B./BL./D)
Day 17: Summit attempt to Acocncagua.
We wake up at 04h a.m. to check the weather for the day. If EAI leader and guides agree to go, then everyone needs to get ready for the big day. After breakfast we should start no later than 5a.m. From Colera camp we begin climbing up for the regular switchbacks, after 45 minutes we can meet the way coming from the Berlin camp, here we may join many other climbers too. Around 6:15am the sun-rise comes up with very magnificent view from the Andes. Continue on the way up with slow hike, after many other switchbacks we do meet another hut (Independencia camp) 6,377m. From here, the route crosses the side of the mountain over screen to break out at the start of the traverse, that leads to the foot of a large gully, leading down from the Summit Ridge. Sometimes from Independencia we need to put on our crampons, the entire rout is with snow, after crossing the side immediately we hike on the traverse, we do meet a rock that looks like a gendarme (I say it) This rock is the sentinel who watches the traverse and the beginning of the canaleta as well, after crossing the sentinel we do climb for long time up.
This is the Canaleta, which gives the most strenuous climbing. Eventually it leads to the Summit Ridge and stupendous views straight down the south face of Aconcagua. A 35-minutes traverse leads across rocky ground and a well-defined path to a short scramble immediately below the top. This leads, without difficulty, to the final steps that lead to the small summit plateau. Here, a cross marks the highest point in the western and southern hemispheres. We have between Nido de Condores to Aconcagua Summit 1399mts . We use around 8-9 hours up and 4-5 hours down. After reaching the summit, celebrating the ascent and taking photographs, we will descent using the normal route passing the Independencia Camp again to arrive at Colera, where our tents for our group are. Here we spend the last night in the high altitude. Dinner and resting full night. (B./BL./D)
Day 18: Second day to summit attempt:
Today is scheduled for resting only and preparing for our next long summit day push. We spend the day at Colera Camp ll for EAI groups this is a
Summit Bid Day. We have two days to reach the summit. This gives us spare time in case of bad weather, but the summit will be attempted on the first day if possible. With an early start, the summit is attainable in about 8 hours. (B./BL./D)
Two summit days have been scheduled into the itinerary in case of bad weather in any part of the climb. In addition, day 18-19 can also be used as an alternate summit day if climbers require.
Day 19: Last night on the Andes mountain.
Today, we will wake up tired but elated. Unlike the previous day, we can afford to let the sunlight bath and warm our tents before we make an appearance, ready for breakfast. However, once up, it will be a race to get ready and to make a rapid descent down scores to base camp, where the staff will be waiting to share the excitement of our ascent. We should all have returned to base camp by mid-afternoon at the latest, which will give us plenty of time for a shower, to relax and to prepare our bags for the walkout.
Our final lunch and dinner will be special and no doubt accompanied by beer and wine to have a nice celebration. Overnight at Plaza de Mulas. (B./BL./D)
Day 20: Resting full day at Plaza de Mulas.
After the summit day we have a full resting time in Plaza de Mulas, to recover the full power of our bodies for the next day hiking back down.
(B./BL./D)
Day 21: Exit National Park and return to Mendoza
Today is a long day's trek all the way down the Horcones Valley to the National Park entrance. We will need to start early today (no later than 9 o'clock, if possible) in order to make the journey all the way back to Mendoza. The walk will take about 8 hours, with little time to linger over lunch. After arriving back at the gate, at about 4 p.m., we then have a 4-hours road journey back to town, where we would expect to be back in the hotel in time for a quick turnaround, and shower, before heading off to a restaurant at about 9 p.m. along with our local guides, in order to celebrate our expedition (which is when the locals go out to eat anyway.)(RESTAURANTE FRANCIS) here you have very but very good Argentinian cuisine. (hotel Aconcagua 4 starts)(or Plaza Hotel 5 starts) (B./BL./--)
Day 22: Fly from Mendoza to Buenos Aires or Santiango de Chile.
Today, we fly from Mendoza to Buenos Aires to an hotel right at the center of the city. This gives very quick access to the main shopping areas. Buenos Aires in Argentina and Santiago de Chile in Chile are the largest cities in South America and the largest Spanish-speaking cities in the world. According to peoples' wishes, the leader can arrange a city sightseeing tour, or a guided visit to a local ecological reserve. After a full day, in the early evening, we leave to the airport to catch our flights back home. (B.)(If you flight is not much early.)
NOTE:
IF WE DO HAVE A SUCCESSFUL CLIMBING AND MAKE THE SUMMIT ON THE FIRST TRY, WE CAN RETURN ONE DAY EARLIER TO MENDOZA AND MAKE THE WINE TOUR.
City tour in Mendoza (740mts) or a resting day in the City. Exploring the charming city of Mendoza, in the heart of wine country, is always a highlight of this trip.